Bali, Indonesia

Bali exceeded my expectations from day one. The jungle, waterfalls, and temples were magical. Because of the strong exchange rate between the U.S. dollar and the Indonesian Rupiah, I stayed in some incredible hotels. The hospitality of everyone I interacted with made me feel special. I loved learning about their culture, especially the significance of the daily gratitude blessing. I have brought the practice of daily gratitude back home with me. Check out our Bali travel guide below!

How we traveled there

I took a domestic flight to San Francisco and stayed overnight at the Sonesta Select to break up the travel. Sonesta is a clean, modern hotel with a free airport transfer service. The next morning, I flew Singapore Air to Bali with a layover in Singapore. While in Singapore, we did not have to go through customs since we were only there for a layover. Singapore Airlines is rated as the 2nd-best airline in the world. They provided two meals, a blanket, a pillow, and excellent customer service. The first flight to Singapore was 17 hours, and the second flight to Bali was 2.5 hours. The airport in Bali is I Gusti Ngurah Rai International Airport (DPS). 

Booked through our hotel, an airport transfer picked us up at 1 a.m. to drive the two hours to Ubud. I don’t usually like to land in a new country at night; however, there were no issues, and I felt safe. There was no traffic driving to the hotel in the middle of the night, which was a win after a long flight. Our driver was at the exit with our name on a sign. We also used WhatsApp messaging to make sure we found each other. He tracked our flight and knew when we were landing. 
When we transferred hotels from Ubud to Uluwatu, we hired a private driver through Anantara (our Uluwatu hotel) to pick us up. Due to midday traffic, the drive between the two cities took 3 hours. Since we booked transfers through our hotels, the drivers were on the expensive side for Bali. For a cheaper option, look into Klook and GetYourGuide for private transfers.

Where we stayed

Ubud – Amora Ubud Boutique Villas is a beautiful property with views of a lush jungle. It is one of my favorite places that I have ever stayed. I loved being surrounded by the jungle and enjoyed how serene it felt. The staff always asked what they could do to improve our stay. Breakfast is complimentary, and we ate here for dinner multiple times since they have a variety of cuisines. I recommend purchasing the honeymoon package, even if you are there with your cousin, like me. We received massages, an airport transfer, and flowers on our bed and bath for a little extra in price. We took advantage of their complimentary yoga session and photography session. The pictures were beautiful, with the jungle in the background. We were provided one free picture by the Hotel, but we ended up buying a lot more. It is a lot more affordable than professional pictures in the United States.

Our room had a king bed overlooking the jungle. The toilet is right next to the bed, with shutter-style doors. The shower also doesn’t have a door. Because of this, make sure you are comfortable with the person you are sharing a room with. The private balcony included an infinity pool, bath, chairs, and a lounge. The walls blocked us from our neighbors, and it was always quiet on the property. This property has many stairs since it is built on the side of a hill in the jungle. Amora is a 30-minute walk to the town of Ubud. The walk is through the jungle, and it is a steep hike back up when you return to the hotel. You can also have the hotel driver take you to the town. Close to the hotel, there are a few restaurants if you don’t want to trek down to the town of Ubud every day. 

Uluwatu – Anantara Uluwatu Bali is located on a cliff overlooking the ocean. This is a resort-style hotel compared to Amora, which is only villas. Anantara has villas with private pools and also traditional hotel rooms. We stayed in a traditional hotel room with a better view of the ocean. The room was massive. Our room had a king bed, a large couch, a large two-sink bathroom, a large shower, and a balcony that included seating and a Jacuzzi. The property has an infinity pool, a bar, a restaurant next to the pool, and a restaurant on the top floor of the hotel overlooking the ocean. We ate at every restaurant and always enjoyed what we had. Breakfast is a complimentary buffet with a variety of cuisines. I loved having multiple fresh juice options each day. 

The staff was very friendly and made everyone feel special. The front desk booked a boat excursion, a Kecak dance performance, car transfers, and a complimentary photography session for us. I like the location of Anantara. The hotel has a staircase down to the beach. We were able to walk and swim at the beach, but there were no chairs since high tide comes right up to the cliff in the afternoon. We could also walk to the main street, which is filled with restaurants, shops, and more beaches. We booked this resort through Dune Travel Group, a full-service luxury travel agency.

What activities we did

Ubud

• I booked an Airbnb Experience that picked us up from our hotel and drove us to the three places below. The driver went into the temple and garden with us to help us with tickets, logistics, and photos. This is an all-day tour that we were able to customize. Instead of ending with waterfalls, we added a trip to the beach. We started the drive at 4 a.m. to beat the traffic to the temple, which is 2 hours away. He dropped us back at the hotel at 5:30 p.m. It was $32 per person.
  • Penataran Agung Lempuyang Temple is a really magical place to spend your morning.
    • This temple is high in the mountains overlooking a volcano. There are a lot of tall stairs to the temple that are adorned with statues of dragons and puppet figures. Looking the other direction away from the temple is the Gate of Heaven. The tall gates overlook the volcano on a clear day. 
    • The Gate of Heaven is a popular place to take pictures. There is a cue to get your picture taken. You get a number when you purchase your entrance ticket, which holds your place in line. We arrived at 6:30 am and had to wait 1.5 hours for our time slot (some waits can be 3 hours long). Although this is a long wait, the pictures were really cool. The staff takes five pictures for you using their reflection mirror. It goes fast, so practice the five poses you want to do while you are waiting. 
    • When we arrived at the parking lot, we paid 50,000 IDR ($4) for the shuttle to take us up to the temple, which took 10 minutes. Once we arrived, we paid 100,000 IDR ($7) for the entrance ticket. This came with a sarong, which is required even if you are wearing long pants. Make sure to wear a shirt that covers your upper arms and shoulders. People who didn’t were given a piece of cloth that didn’t look great in pictures. These fees were cash only.  
    • There is a steep paved hill to walk up that takes a few minutes before arriving at the temple. Along the way, some stands and stores sell water, snacks, and local fruit. Since there is a wait to get your Gate of Heaven picture taken, go to the left before getting all the way to the temple. It is the bottom of the Gate of Heaven. There is someone there waiting to take reflection mirror pictures for you. Although it’s not as stunning as the official Gate of Heaven pictures, it is still beautiful and also great practice for the poses you want to do at the official gate. 
    • I recommend going early in the morning, like we did. Once the sun peaks above the temple, it is really hot up there, and the sun blinds you for the pictures.
  • Tirtagangga is a beautiful garden that exceeded my expectations. The garden has ponds with large koi fish along with beautiful sculptures and flowers. Purchase bread to feed the koi fish so they surround you for pictures on the stones. I would factor in 30 minutes to 1 hour here. The entrance fee is 70,000 IDR ($4). I would not drive to this area just to see Tirtagangga, but if you are in the area (it’s close to Lempuyang Temple), then absolutely check it out. We ate lunch at La Grande right next to the garden. The food is good, and the scenery is even better. 
  • Virgin Beach was the perfect end to a great tour. I loved relaxing on this beach, which is surrounded by cliffs with clear, clean water. I rented a beach lounge chair and a towel. There are changing rooms, bathrooms, a restaurant, and an infinity pool. We went in the afternoon for a few hours, and only 15 other people were at the beach. The staff said the day before was busy. 
• Our waterfall tour, booked through Viator, is a build-your-own-style customized tour. This was my other favorite day in Bali. We provided the places we wanted to see beforehand, and a driver picked us up from our hotel at 8 a.m. During this drive, we saw monkeys and rice terraces. The driver spoke excellent English and brought a great energy. Bring a towel, swimsuit, and waterproof shoes that you can hike in, like Tevas. I would recommend packing a quick-dry towel so your towel dries for the second waterfall stop. Initially, I added five stops to my itinerary, which was too many given the 2-hour drive and the time we spent at each stop. I would plan for 2-3 stops max, so you aren’t just rushing around all day. Here are the locations we visited;
  • Waterfall and Lagoon Complex – This place has so many waterfalls to see, slide down, and jump off of. There is also a hike to a blue lagoon to swim in. We paid 250,000 IDR ($15), which is their tier 2 package. This came with a guide, which I was glad to have since we hiked and had to cross rapids. He first took us to see the Aling Aling Waterfall. Swimming is not allowed here.  Then we crossed the river and hiked up about 250 feet of elevation for 30 minutes to Sambangan Secret Garden (known as the Blue Lagoon). This is the water that feeds the Aling Aling Waterfall. We were able to swim here and swing off a rope into the water. It was magical to be there with only two other people. Afterward, we hiked down to where there were multiple waterfalls you could slide down and a cliff you could jump off of. We spent 3 hours here, but you could spend all day. There is so much to do, all while surrounded by lush scenery. 
  • The second stop was Banyumala Twin Waterfalls, which is a 1-hour drive from the Aling Aling Waterfall area. It is a 5-minute walk to the ticket counter, which charges 50,000 IDR to enter ($3). Then you walk down steep, slippery steps for 15 minutes before arriving at the waterfall. It was muddy from the rain. Don’t wear nice clothes or shoes without traction. This waterfall is high and wide. I enjoyed getting in the cold water for a quick swim, but many people enjoyed the waterfall from the bridge. Once you take the stairs back up to the ticket counter, you can pay 25,000 IDR ($2) for someone to scooter you back to the parking lot if you are tired. Give yourself 1-2 hours here. 
  • If you do have additional time, check out the Bali Handara Gate. We drove by it, but we were too tired. The gate is pretty with a lush, mountainous background. There were about 30 people there taking pictures.
• We spent a morning in the town of Ubud. Check out the Ubud Palace, which is free to enter. You can see it all in 20 minutes. There is also an art market pop-up across the street that starts at 10 am. There are a lot of souvenir-type vendors and some more art-focused tents. We walked past the Pura Gunung Lebah Temple, which is next to a river. You are allowed to go in, but they were doing a ceremony, so we didn’t want to disrupt it. You can explore the town of Ubud in one day. 
• We spent an afternoon at the Amora pool. It is an infinity pool overlooking the jungle with multiple lounge beds. If you are not staying at the hotel, you can pay for a day pass to access the pool. 

Uluwatu

• Uluwatu Temple and Kecak Dance Performance
  • We went an hour before sunset to explore the temple, which cost 30,000 IDR ($2). The temple is on a cliff 320 feet above the ocean, where there were a few surfers. The monkeys in this area are aggressive. We saw someone’s sunglasses get snatched by a monkey. There is a trail along the perimeter of the coast that you can walk, but we didn’t have time.
  • The Kecak Dance Performance is in the temple area and costs 150,000 IDR ($9). It is a 45-minute show telling a story through traditional Balinese dancing and chanting. I recommend this unique and entertaining experience. They have a 6 p.m. and 7 p.m. show daily. We opted for the 6 p.m. show to see the sunset. The bleacher seats were very packed and uncomfortable. I sat on my jacket for more support, which helped. Arrive at least a half an hour early. Some people had to sit on the floor. Before sunset, it is very hot, and everyone is directly in the sun. They have mini water bottles that you can grab behind the seating area. Our hotel provided a transfer service, which drove us, handled our tickets, and showed us around the temple. You can get tickets at the temple entrance if you don’t want to pay the extra fee to book through your hotel. The parking and ticket line was caustic, which is why we were glad our hotel handled the logistics. 
• We booked a sunset boat tour through the hotel. It was with the Black Pearl Boat Trip, which is located in Kuta, a 1.5-hour drive from Anantara due to traffic. In a long boat, we went around the coast, swam, ate dinner (provided by Anantara), and then watched the sunset. The Black Pearl also has a restaurant that was packed with locals when we arrived back to shore. It seemed like a great beach restaurant for Indonesian cuisine. 
• Padang Padang Beach is surrounded by cliffs and coves. There were many people surfing, with multiple vendors to rent boards from. It costs 15,000 IDR ($1) to enter the beach, and there is a toilet. The stairs are quick but steep to get up and down from the beach. There is a stand that allows you to sit in their bean bag chairs if you purchase a drink from them. I bought two beautiful sarongs from a vendor at this beach. 
• I enjoyed reading and swimming at Anantara’s infinity pool, which overlooks the ocean. 
• We walked the main street of Uluwatu (Jl. Labuansait road), which has great clothing shops and restaurants. The clothing stores are pricey for Bali standards but more affordable than in the United States for quality clothes and unique pieces. I liked the Indigo Luna Store.

Where we ate

Ubud

• Avocuts Coffee & Eatery for breakfast. They have big platters and avocado toast. It is one street over from Ubud Palace.
• Tamian Cafe is a few blocks from our hotel in Ubud. It overlooks rice fields, and the food is amazing. We ordered shrimp fried rice and curry. 
• Birdhill Restaurant at our Ubud hotel has a variety of cuisines. We ate here multiple times due to the convenience and jungle views. Their menu included avocado and egg toast, salmon, pasta, pizza, curry, juices, and coconut water. They also have delicious gluten-free bread. 

Uluwatu

• The Cave is a 10-course dining experience in a cave at the Edge Hotel. The dishes are delicious and unique. The event is 2 hours long and costs $100 per person (without the wine pairing). A reservation is needed since there are only 10 tables. 
• Anantara Hotel Resturants
  • 360 Rooftop is on the top floor of the hotel that overlooks the ocean. They have a huge buffet breakfast selection, including eggs, juices, pastries, granola, fruit, and traditional Asian cuisines. For lunch, they served a tasty satay fish.
  • Botol Biru Bar & Grill overlooked the pool and the ocean. They have great cocktails and small bites. 
• The Place With No Name is an indoor and outdoor restaurant on the main street. I loved the chips, salsa, and falafel. 
• If you need more options, there are a lot of restaurants along Jl. Labuansait road

What we recommend knowing/preparing

Bali

• At customs, we presented our Visa On Arrival QR code to a machine that took our picture before letting us through the gate. We didn’t have to speak to a customs agent. Customs took less than 5 minutes, but we also landed at midnight when the airport was less busy. Before you arrive in Bali, fill out these four documents to ensure a quick customs process:
  • $9 tourist tax
  • Visa on Arrival
  • Electronic Customs Declaration within 72 hours of arrival
  • Health Questionaire within 48 hours of arrival
• I took $150 USD in Indonesian Rupiah and didn’t take any more out. I mostly used cash for tipping and tickets for excursions. 
• I would not drive in Bali. There is too much traffic, with motorbikes on both sides of the car. Also, the drives are long to get to the best places. Due to traffic, a 2-hour drive back to Ubud became a 4-hour drive.  
• Download Grab, which is their equivalent of Uber. They have cars and motorbikes for transportation and food delivery. 
• My Verizon international plan worked with no issues. I purchased the 30-day plan for $100. I didn’t need to activate or buy anything else. 
• Everyone I encountered spoke good English, and there were English signs everywhere. 
• The people of Bali present a daily offering to the gods: a bamboo tray with flowers and incense. This is a daily gratitude offering that you will see everywhere. Don’t step on these offerings. 
• Instead of shaking hands or hugging, the people of Bali bow to show gratitude and respect. You should bow back to return the gratitude.
• I did not get “Bali belly,” also known as traveler’s diarrhea. I used hand sanitizer before every meal. I used bottled water to brush my teeth. I didn’t eat any street food. I did have ice in my drinks because they used filtered ice. 
• I went at the end of the rainy season in mid-February. It rained almost every day, but it lasted only 1 to 2 hours in the morning or afternoon and did not impact any of my activities. 
• February is a slower season, but the traffic is still crazy. The roads are paved well, but most roads only have one lane in each direction. Prepare for 2-3 hour drives between major cities. 
• Bali offers a variety of experiences depending on the area you stay in, the type of accommodation you book, and the activities you are interested in. I did not attend any day or night clubs, nor did I stay in the busy area of Canggu. If you do want to stay where more partying happens, prepare for more traffic congestion and less tranquility. Although there are accommodations at $50 per night, I paid $300 per night to stay at incredible 4-star hotels. Bali has a variety of offerings for the type of trip you are looking for. 
• I visited Bali for one week, but you could easily find enough to do to fill up a 2-week itinerary. 

What we didn’t do but looked into

Bali

• The Gili islands are three small Indonesian islands a 1.5-hour ferry ride away. We didn’t explore Gili because we only spent one week in Bali, and it felt similar to what we did in Belize last year. We also heard the ferry ride is unorganized and nauseating. 
• A hike up Mount Batur, an active volcano offering panoramic views over the island. Many people do the sunrise hike in the early morning. 

Ubud

• Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary is a large forest with many monkeys. We heard that the monkeys can be aggressive, and we saw plenty of them on our drives. If we had another day in Ubud, I would have visited it. The forest looked beautiful with very tall trees when we drove past it. 
• Tegalalang Rice Terrace is a UNESCO World Heritage site. We saw rice terraces while driving up to the waterfall tour in Northern Bali, which is why we didn’t visit Tegalalang. 
• Tirta Empul Temple is a spiritual site where you can experience the sacred Melukat purification ritual. I have heard that this place can be touristy, which takes away from the spiritual experience. 
• Coffee Plantation tour, since I am not a big coffee drinker. Many tours have tea options as well. 

Uluwatu

• Garuda Wisnu Kencana Cultural Park is the home to the fourth-tallest statue in the world
• We did not check out any beach clubs because we enjoyed our hotel pool and nearby beaches. Here is a beach club guide. 
• Rock Bar at Ayana Hotel is a great place for sunset. The bar is halfway down the cliff. It has a DJ and an amazing sunset view. We swam by it during our sunset boat tour, and it had great energy. 
• Le Cliff Bali is right on the ocean, but there were way too many stairs to get down to it. This is a restaurant and hotel. 
• Surf Lessons at Padang Padang beach. A few booths were set up for surfers to take lessons on the beach. The surfers were farther in the water, away from the swimmers. The beach also has professional photographers on a roof capturing surfers riding waves.

What we packed

Bring lightweight clothing for 80-degree weather in mid-February. I sweated every single day. We packed a lot of swimsuits and cover-ups. I wore long pants and a shirt covering my shoulders for the temple. It did rain for an hour or two each day. Pack a raincoat and Tevas. You need bug spray and sunscreen. I brought sunscreen from the United States because I heard the sunscreen in Bali is not strong enough for my pale skin. 

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We hope you enjoyed our Bali travel guide. If you have any questions, contact us. If you’re looking for other places to go in Asia, check out our posts on Japan and Thailand.

~Elyse