Morocco

My friend had booked a trip to Morocco that was canceled during the COVID-19 pandemic. I decided to join her on her rescheduled trip to Morocco. We visited Morocco at the end of April before it was too hot. Our Morocco trip was booked through a group travel company, For The Love Of Travel (FTLO), which I traveled with in the past to Colombia. They offer group travel trips to over 30 destinations for people in their 20s and 30s. Our wonderful local guide showed us a great mix of tourist destinations and local experiences.

Although I plan trips frequently, I would not have been able to plan a better trip than FTLO Travel’s Morocco trip. Our trip had 13 travelers and one local guide who was with us the entire time. Most people share a room with another traveler, but you can upgrade to a single room at a higher fee. FTLO Travel uses an app, Mighty, which was filled with information on pre-trip prep and our day-to-day itinerary. All our accommodations were beautiful, and I always felt safe. Check out our Morocco travel guide below!

How we traveled there

I flew from Denver to Madrid on United Airlines, with a connection in Frankfurt. I met up with my friend in Madrid, where we stayed overnight, at Hotel Madrid Alameda Aeropuerto. I picked this hotel because it had a free shuttle to and from the airport. We took a 30-minute Uber to downtown Madrid to fight the jet lag and walked around Plaza Mayor and Mercado de San Miguel, which were lively at night. Grand Via is the street for great shopping. 

In the morning, we flew directly to Tangier, Morocco, on Iberia Airlines. Once you go through security in the Madrid airport, you must take a train to another terminal and go through a 30-minute customs line. Factor this into your travel time. We were at the airport 1.5 hours before departure and had no time to spare. 

Once we arrived in Tangier, we found the car I had pre-booked a car through Tangier Taxi to drive us from the airport to the hotel. It was $25/pp, and the driver was easy to find at the airport. We also communicated through WhatsApp so he knew when we landed. Other travelers had to wait in a long line for a taxi at the airport. 

On my way home, I flew from Marrakech to Denver on Air France, with one connection in Paris. My tour guide booked me a car for $15, and the riad staff walked me to meet the driver, given that it was 3 a.m. 

Where we stayed

I stayed at 5 different accommodations while in Morocco. I would stay at these places again. They were all unique and I felt safe at all of them. My two favorite places we stayed were in Ouarzazate and Marrakech. 

Tangier

• El Minzah hotel which was walkable to the medina (old town). It was also on the same block as Gran Café de Paris, which was a hangout for smugglers, movie stars, and agents back in the day. The hotel had a complimentary breakfast buffet which had a lot of options. There was also a pool with a view but it was raining the day we were there.

Fez

• Dar Victoria was not walkable to the places we wanted to see. It is an 18th-century, Moroccan-style house that was converted into guest rooms. It was beautifully decorated with traditional Moroccan tiles and architecture. It also had a rooftop and served breakfast and dinner. The room I slept in had a window outside which was quite noisy at night but my friend didn’t hear anything in the other room. 

Merzouga

• We glamped in the Sahara Desert at Dunes Luxury Camp. We rode camels to the camp. Then we took 4×4 cars in the morning that drove on the sand back to our van. Our tent had two beds, a toilet, and a shower with warm water. The camp provided dinner and breakfast with wine for purchase. It had a large outdoor seating area where they played music at night while people danced around a fire. We also walked up the dunes to see the stars at night. 

Ouarzazate

• Kasbah Tamsna was my favorite hotel we stayed at because of the beautiful design and decor. We had a luxurious room with a balcony that overlooked the mountains. They also had a pool and a delicious restaurant that served wine and cocktails. 

Marrakech

• Riad Al Jazira was my favorite riad we stayed at. Although our room was small, the common areas were beautiful, including a pool on the main floor and a rooftop lounge area. This riad was in the city and very walkable. 
• My friend stayed a few extra days at Riad Nyla, another beautiful riad in the medina that had a spa she loved. 

What activities we did

Tangier

We had a tour guide take us around the medina to see all the beautiful architecture. I loved all the doors and Moroccan tiles. My favorite places to see were the Bab el-Assa, a historic location, and the Bab al Bahr, which overlooks the Strait of Gibraltar. We heard that Google Maps don’t work well in the medina, which is why a tour guide is recommended. We only spent an afternoon and night in Tangier. 

Chefchaouen

This is the blue city which we explored on our way to Fez. You can explore the city on your own, but we liked having a tour guide who explained the history and showed us the most beautiful spots. The city gets repainted blue multiple times per year. The blue color symbolizes the sky and heaven while the white symbolizes peace. My favorite places to see and take pictures in the blue city were Place El Haouta, Derb El Assri and Darb Limoun. 

Fez

• The Royal Palace is the palace of the King of Morocco in the city of Fez. Visitors are not allowed inside, but I recommend seeing the 7 ornate entrances.
• Make a quick stop at Borj Sud for a beautiful panoramic view of the city of Fez
• Art D’argile offers tours of their pottery and mosaic tile production. They create beautiful pieces which are available for purchase. I purchased tea cups, but they have many options, from pottery bowls and plates to mosaic-tiled tables and fountains. They packed my tea cups which did not break in my luggage. My friend shipped her pieces which arrived 3 weeks later. Art D’argile handled the shipping for her. 
• Explore the medina, one of the best conserved historic towns of the Arab-Muslim world and a UNESCO World Heritage Centre. I highly recommend a tour guide since the medina has 9,000 streets and alleys.
  • In the medina, make a stop at the famous Chouara Tannery, which is believed to be the oldest in the world. They will show you the entire process and then take you to their shop to purchase leather goods, including jackets, duffle bags, purses, belts, and more. The smell is very strong, but they provide mint to keep close to your nose, which helps. 
  • Al Attarine Madrasa is a college near the Al-Qarawiyyin Mosque in the medina. It costs $2 USD to enter.

Merzouga

In Merzouga, we rode camels for 45 minutes on the way to our resort in the Sahara desert. We stopped halfway to sand board. If you aren’t staying the night in the desert, you can ride a camel for 1.5 hours. Bring a scarf which they will wrap around your head to protect you from the sun and wind. They put a large cushion over the camel’s hump to sit on. I recommend long pants and prepare for your inner thighs to be sore the next day. The camels can carry up to 900 lbs for 25 miles, and they only use male camels. This was my favorite and most unique part of the trip. 

Ouarzazate

Aït Benhaddou is 30 minutes away from Ouarzazate. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its Moroccan earthen clay architecture. Many movies, including Gladiator, were filmed here. I recommend walking all the way to the top for views of the city and surrounding scenery.

If you are looking for a Moroccan rug, check out Cooperative Akhnif Lglaoui, which is in Aït Benhaddou. Local women create these rugs, which can take months to years to make. They have thousands to choose from and various sizes. Prices range from $300 to thousands of dollars per rug, depending on the size and complexity. I bought a living room-size rug that they packed tightly for me to carry on the airplane. My friend shipped three rugs home, which took one month to receive. The cooperative handled the shipping for her. 

If you are headed from Ouarzazate to Marrakech, I recommend stopping at Restaurant Palais de Tichka for lunch. Sit outside for a view of the Atlas Mountains. Next door is an Argon shop which sells argon products for skin, hair, cooking, and more. I purchased argon hair oil and under-eye serum. 

Marrakech

• Koutoubia Mosque is right outside the main square in Marrakech. You can’t miss it! Non-muslims are not allowed inside, so you don’t need more than 30 minutes to walk around the outside of the mosque. 
• Bahia Palace had beautiful architecture. Explore the different areas of the palace and the gardens. It is only $1 USD and worth visiting even though there are a lot of tourists. Give yourself 1.5-2 hours here.
• Explore the medina! A tour guide is not needed for the Marrakech medina. My Google Maps worked all through the medina. I explored it alone a few times and felt safe during the day. I purchased Moroccan candle holders and luggage.
  • Jemaa el-Fnaa is the main square and market in Marrakech. I recommend experiencing it at night when all the vendor stalls are active. There are exotic foods to try and entertainment. 
  • Check out the Berber pharmacies lined with walls of spices, herbs, and other natural products
• We learned how to cook tagine, the traditional Moroccan meal at Amal. This is a non-profit that helps women gain skills to enter the job market. We made chicken, lamb, and fish tagines and had a tea ceremony.  
• Heritage Spa was in the Marrakech medina. For $115, I had a hammam, a hot stone massage, and a facial. I recommend trying a hammam while in Morocco since it’s an ancient ritual. At Heritage Spa, the treatment rooms are for two people and everyone only wears underwear. There was a sauna and steam portion then they scrubbed us with black soap, which removed dead skin. I left feeling very smooth and refreshed. Only participate if you are comfortable having someone else bathe and scrub you down mostly naked.  

Where we ate

Most of our accommodations provided breakfast and dinner. I loved the fresh orange juice every morning. Breakfast is usually sweet with many cakes and honey for bread. Tea was served multiple times a day. 

Tangier

• El Tangerino – Spanish restaurant with paella. Across the street from the beach and the Strait of Gibraltar. 
• Gran Café de Paris, which was a hangout for smugglers, movie stars, and agents back in the day. It is a great place for coffee or tea and a snack. 

Chefchaouen

• Riad & Restaurant Hicham – This restaurant was in the main square and served traditional Moroccan cuisine. We sat upstairs for lunch, and there was both indoor and outdoor seating. 

Fez

• Restaurant Ryad Nejjarine – Moroccan cuisine in a beautiful riad. We went for lunch while we were exploring the medina.  
• We were lucky to experience a home-cooked meal of pastilla (chicken pie) at a local family’s home that our tour guide knew

Marrakech

• Cafe Des Espices is a great lunch spot in the medina for a burger and juice. It has mostly outside seating and a rooftop. It gets busy here, but we only waited 5 minutes for a table. 
• Limoni is an Italian pasta and pizza restaurant. We could walk in, but it gets busy at dinner time. 
• Palais Jad Mahal was a Moroccan restaurant with entertainment during dinner and then turned into a club later in the night. There were fire breathers, dancers, and an aerialist. 
• La Table du Palais is a restaurant in the Lamrani Palace garden
• Other restaurants recommended to us were Pepe Nero and La Trattoria for Italian, Le Salama Sky-bar which had belly dancers, Nomad for lunch, and Kabana Rooftop for cocktails. 

Where we drank

The consumption of alcohol is permitted in Morocco but with limitations. You won’t find it at most stores or see many people drinking publicly because it is considered a sin in their religion.  Licensed hotels and restaurants serve alcohol, and all the accommodations we stayed at provided wine bottles for purchase. We had a glass or two of wine at some dinner restaurants and purchased a few bottles of wine throughout the trip from our hotels. We did not drink much, given we were on the go for most of the trip. 

What we recommend knowing/preparing

• Riad vs Dar – Riads have an interior garden, while dars have an inner courtyard. Riads and Dars have a bed-and-breakfast vibe. You get a room that typically has open windows into the courtyard. Bring a noise machine if you are a light sleeper. Most served breakfast and dinner. They are also tucked into alleys and have an unassuming door. If you think you are in the wrong place, you probably aren’t. 
• Medinas are the old towns in Moroccan cities. They have many small streets and alleys, and Google Maps doesn’t always work. Because of this, tour guides are recommended. Marrakesh was the only medina I didn’t think a tour guide was necessary. 
• Their currency is the Moroccan dirham. For USD, I divided dirhams by ten to get the estimated cost in dollars ($10 MAD is about $1 USD). It is a closed currency, which means you need to get it once you enter the country. The ATM at the airport and the ATM at our first hotel in Tangier had a high fee of 10%. Try to wait until you see a bank ATM which is typically around a 4% fee. I took cash out 4 times during my 9-day trip, which totaled $400 USD. I recommend taking out $100 at a time instead of all at once in case it is stolen. No one on my trip had anything stolen, but it’s better to be safe in touristy areas. You are not supposed to take Moroccan dirhams out of the country, but I was not asked at customs if I had any dirhams. 
• Heckling is a part of the culture in the medinas. Always negotiate for a better price and check the conversion rate before paying so you know it’s a reasonable price. My friend paid $22 for a magnet. I probably overpaid on a few things because I don’t like heckling but I never paid the initial price. 
• We did a lot of driving during our trip, sometimes 6 hours in one day. Although it was a lot of car time, it was worth it to see all the amazing places we visited. I wouldn’t have traded experiencing the Sahara desert for less car time.
• I would not have wanted to drive in Morocco. We passed 30 police checkpoints during our trip, and we were stopped twice. The driver had to provide his credentials and sometimes tour guides have to too. They also checked driving records to make sure the driver took a 15-minute break every 2 hours and a 45-minute break every 4 hours, which is a law in Morocco. 
• Moroccans eat dinner late. Most of our dinners were between 8-9:30 pm. 

What we didn’t do but looked into

These are all recommendations that my friend enjoyed during her extended stay in Marrakech.

• Sunrise Hot Air Balloon Ride—My friend enjoyed this, but the 4 a.m. wake-up call was too early for me. They drive you 30 minutes away from Marrakech and provide coffee before taking you up in the hot air balloons. 
• Majorelle Garden (YSL Garden) – Tickets are about $7 USD and purchasing your ticket in advance is recommended through their website
• Secret Garden – The previous home of some of Morocco and Marrakech’s most important political figures. Tickets are about $10 USD and they only sell tickets in advance for parties of 10 or more
• Medresa Ben Youssef – An Islamic College. You can purchase tickets online which are about $5. 

What we packed

I brought a carry-on since we changed locations every 1-2 days. Having a smaller bag made it easier to move from city to city since the streets were uneven. Since Morocco is a Muslim country, females should dress modestly by covering their shoulders and thighs. It is not required for tourists but is highly recommended as a sign of respect for their culture. With the Moroccan heat, bring linen or athletic material clothes. I wore lightweight pants or athletic dresses with a scarf or linen button-up to cover my shoulders. This Vuori dress was perfect because I could dress it up or down, and the material is very comfortable. I wore my linen white button-down frequently because it covered my shoulders and was lightweight. Leave your heels at home and opt for comfortable shoes only. I wore tennis shoes or Tevas every day.

Check out our recommendations for travel clothing and essentials.

We hope you enjoyed our Morocco travel guide. If you have any questions, leave a comment below or contact us. If you’re looking for other places to go close to Morocco, check out our post on Portugal.

~Elyse